Experiments in Form

In March I started graduate school in the English department at DePaul University. One of my classes was Food and Entertainment Writing, and so without further ado, I present my first ever restaurant review, written in April 2010. Is this the beginning of a new career path? Probably not, but I can't complain about eating food and writing about it, so perhaps this won't be the last. Bon appetit.

The French Invade Lincoln Square

A new BYOB bistro stakes its claim on Lawrence Avenue

By Brittany Petersen

Soup a l'oignon

When I was 12 years old, my grandmother taught me how to make French onion soup (soupe a l’oignon) from scratch. Our family is not French, so I’m not sure why that particular dish was chosen, but ever since I have scoured the cities I’ve lived in and visited, looking for soup as good as the stuff my grandma and I would make. (She cut up the onions, but the rest was all me.) My official Chicago soupe a l’oignon slot has finally been filled by Rendezvous Bistro, a new BYOB in Lincoln Square.

Rendezvous’ unassuming storefront is deceiving; the interior of the tearoom-sized restaurant is delightfully outfitted with blue banquettes, throw pillows, French posters, and kitschy rooster knickknacks. Café curtains, toffee-colored walls, simple chandeliers, and white linen napkins complete the charmingly provincial atmosphere.

We were the first diners to arrive on a Tuesday evening, and with the exception of one other table we had the place to ourselves for the duration of the meal. (The limited hours of operation – 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday – leave something to be desired.) I clutched an inexpensive bottle of “French” table wine, hastily bought at a corner store down the street, and the friendly garcon poured as soon as we sat down, making small talk in what I determined to be an authentic French accent (and thankfully not judging my wine choice). The no-fee BYOB was certainly a plus, but I wouldn’t mind a small fee in exchange for a menu of a few inexpensive, French, house bottles.

Saumon fumée with cream fraiche and brioche

The Rendezvous menu is hearty and simple, featuring textbook French dishes like coq au vin, steak au poivre, crêpes suzette, and of course soupe a l’oignon. (Everything sounds more delicious in French, doesn’t it?) The selection is modest, but what they do, they do well. The soupe a l’oignon was, of course, my favorite: smooth and fragrant, while avoiding the over-salted pitfall that plagues many iterations of my favorite dish. My entrée of saumon du jour was cooked to savory perfection, with a crunch that still makes my mouth water. My dining companion was content with his hor d’oeuvre of saumon fumée.

Saumon du jour

It wasn’t all great. The bed of vegetables that accompanied my salmon was disappointingly cold to the touch, and the cylindrical potato pieces were undercooked. But the pesto that circled the plate was a delicious accent, and the rich flavor of the cold red pepper was a nice complement that would have been even better served hot. We cleaned off our plates and, happily stuffed, waved off the dessert menu (on which crème brûlée is strangely absent).

Coq au vin

The best part? No entrées exceed $20, meaning you can fill up on French food without emptying your wallet. And beginning May 3^rd, Rendezvous will offer an “early dining” menu from 5 p.m. to 6 p.m., Monday through Thursday, featuring a three-course, prix-fixe meal for $20.10. “Early” diners can create their own happy hour and enjoy menu staples like steak frites and mousse au chocolat.

Rendezvous owner Simo Yaacobi is the former manager of one of Chicago’s mainstay French restaurants, Kiki’s Bistro, on Franklin Street. When he decided to start his own venture, he kept close to home – he grew up in Lincoln Square, and he hired an impressive array of French relatives to staff and serve at Rendezvous. (So I was right about that authentic French accent.) The entire operation is decidedly low-tech, and Yaacobi seems to be leaning on word of mouth and a newly updated website, which features numerous spelling and punctuation errors as well as that annoying thing everyone did ten years ago where music plays when you open the page. Still, the music choice – Edith Piaf’s iconic “Non, je ne regrette rien”* – does lend a proud French flair to an otherwise unimpressive web presence.

There are still a few kinks to work out – service was slow, and it would be fun to see a few more risks on the menu – but thanks to the comfortable atmosphere, friendly staff, and solidly executed menu, watch for Rendezvous to become a Lincoln Square sleeper sensation. Or at least for it to become a little harder to keep the place to yourself on a weeknight.

Rendezvous Bistro, 2656 W. Lawrence Ave.; (773) 561-4400, www.lerendezvousbistro.com. Average bill: $30.

* Editor's Note: For the cultured among you, this was the song featured in Inception.